In the New York Times article, “Nokia Tries to Undo Blunders in U.S.,” journalist, Kevin J. O’brien interviews executives at Nokia, a Finnish company and the world’s largest cell phone maker, about its decline in the United States.
Nokia’s comments are best summarized by this quote: “Among its biggest blunders, analysts and former Nokia executives say, the company failed to design many of its phones to the tastes of American consumers, instead mass producing devices for the global market to save on production costs.” That move cost Nokia almost a 30% share of the American market. On Thursday, Nokia posted a 1.36 billion loss and a global sales decline of 20%.
Evident in this story: the value of good design, and the cost of short-term thinking.
Example, Nokia was slow to develop a smart phone that could compete with the iPhone, a consistently growing sector of the cell phone market. And refused to tailor merchandise to local tastes and demands, at a penalty. The cell phone industry is extremely competitive and good design is an important element to any business success story.
Now, “Mark Louison, president of Nokia’s North American unit, says the company is laying the groundwork for long-term success.” Long-term, is a word not often uttered in corporate America. That said, having a vision of the long-term, the future that is, will be critical to any company looking to thrive.
If only more executives would take the time to understand the long-term picture and build for local markets, we would all benefit from an environmentally and economically sustainable world. NATALIA
When I see performers like Kanye West and Lady Gaga sporting light up clothing and accessories I can’t help but think that this could be a glimpse into the near future of fashion. The visceral use of the technology lends itself in performance but could there actually be a real world purpose? Yes, but not yet. A new technology called Lumalive has emerged, and like most fashion technology collaborations, Lumalive is best suited as marketing buzz. Until there are more fashion designers that understand material technology and see the big picture, we will continue to see frivolous high-tech innovations.
Lumalive is a branch off product from Phillips, and specializes in pieces of clothing with embedded LED lights that can create moving images within the textile itself. So far, they have been pushing the idea that this is an eye catching way to promote your company, product or event. The images that are created within the garment are very generic and look like a scrolling movie theater marquee. None the less, the experience is visually stimulating, and as this technology evolves the images will become more complex.
It seems inevitable that its novelty will wear off and that Lumalive will make its way into mainstream retail. Considering how fast trends in fashion move people may just crave a light bright garment for back to school. Now the idea of illuminating clothing becoming accessible doesn’t seem to be so Tron-esque anymore.
Women and men want well-made clothing and today that might mean buying from the same collection as more and more designers release gender neutral collections.
Faconnable began in the south of France and was known for exquisite tailoring and quality materials. So naturally, it makes sense that as women expand their wardrobes to loser fitting clothing and suits that there would be a desire for quality. Eric Wright, Faconnable’s Creative Director, just launched a unisex collection called Numbers. The pieces are slim versions of classic men’s sportswear from the French company. The sizing is based loosely on women’s sizing (0-11). Since men’s fashion has been incorporating tights, skinny jeans and loose fitting tops recently it seems only natural to have a unisex collection that would be a bit loose fitting for the ladies and cater to the men’s trend of tighter fitting clothing. Wright, a Lagerfeld and Cavalli alum, explains, “They’re basics, based on menswear, but women can wear them just as easily. It’s all about how you want it to fit.”
With tighter budgets and the catwalks turning a bit towards androgynous looks, a non-gender specific collection seems like a great idea. A man can go out and buy a fitted pair of twill trousers and his girlfriend can throw them on with a tight colorful belt and white collared shirt unbuttoned a bit and suddenly it is a he/she wardrobe.
Gucci Suit Spring 2009
Gucci, Prada, YSL and Balenciaga showed clothing in Paris and Milan that was more austere and voluminous on women. Chloë Sevigny is adding a unisex collection to her Opening Ceremony line as well. Perhaps women just want to tap into the well-made, durable world of men’s tailoring and sportswear. Perhaps men are tending the other way towards tighter fitting clothing. Perhaps if a collection is well made it is attractive to everyone. Whatever the reason, fashion, not socio-politics, seems to be dominating this trend. Unlike women’s liberation from corsets in the 20’s and the power suits of the 80’s, it just seems like people appreciate versatile, well-made clothing and that desire is not gender specific or necessarily rooted in a political statement. As long as designers continue to make some gender specific clothing too to fill out their collections, I think everyone will stay happy. Just think of how many more closet sharing opportunities there will be. Faconnable’s website has a video of the collection below.
As of mid October Patagonia lovers can now buy a hipper version of the classic 1980’s Synchilla fleece jacket that has been a staple for the environmentally conscious brand. The jacket will be sold exclusively at Urban Outfitters and is available as a zip up ($99) or pullover ($89). The fleece is made from recycled plastic soda bottles and is also a part of Patagonia’s Common Threads Garment Recycling program, which means any piece of clothing with the Common Threads Garment Recycling logo can be returned to the company and re-used for future products. As stated by Patagonia, “Over the course of 13 years, we saved some 86 million soda bottles from the trash heap. That’s enough oil to fill the 40-gallon gas tank of the diminutive Chevy Suburban 20,000 times.” According to customer reviews the jacket is as well loved as ever with a slightly slimmer fit. The only complaint has been about the colors being a little off from online pictures, but Patagonia is keeping true to its range of brightly colored fleece in colors like turquoise and French red. It is inspiring to see the collaboration between two companies with such different markets fuse, bringing together markets of different ages as well as interests. Three cheers for green fashion and just in time for the holidays!
Louis Vuitton added some holiday cheer to its Fifth Avenue store on November 7th by wrapping the building in its signature multicolored monogram designed by Takashi Murakami. The vinyl installation is part of an effort to present something unique for the holiday season and is best viewed at night when the neon logo pops out in thirty-three candy colors. Murakami is a notable Japanese artist who works in a variety of mediums including fashion, fine art, installation art, mouse pads, sculptures and t-shirts. Dubbed the next Andy Warhol, Murakami’s art has swept Europe and the US and is even more accessible than Warhol’s art by price and product. Check more out about Murakami, LV or their collaboration below.
Chair of Fashion at Parsons, Simon Collins, moderates an informative panel of fashion industry leaders selected to discuss future careers in a fast-changing fashion industry. NATALIA
Believe it or not, the fashion industry is responsible for a large part of the world’s pollution. From manufacturing to shipping, tons of toxic chemicals, CO2 and greenhouse gasses are discharged, and huge amounts of oil and energy are consumed.That said, where can one go for stylish, yet eco-friendly clothing?Enter Goodone, a British label that creates hip and trendy clothes made from recycled garments.
Founded by two Brighton University graduates, Nin Castle and Phoebe Emerson, Goodone takes second-hand or throwaway clothing and repurposes them into new garments that don’t look obviously recycled.Their style has an urban and edgy vibe, with each garment being unique since all textiles and prints come from used clothing.All products are locally hand-made from individually chosen recycled garments or sourced from textile recycling factories.What is innovative about Goodone is that they are providing a creative and sustainable solution to counteract the damage that the fashion industry has been wreaking upon the environment.By using materials that already exist, they don’t need to consume more energy or expend more toxic waste in order to manufacture new products.And unlike some other companies that have hopped on the recycling bandwagon, Goodone’s garments are not only eco-friendly and fashionable, but also completely realistic and wearable.Now that’s fashion with a conscience.WU
Eddie Bauer is going back to its original roots by hiring mountaineer legend Jim Whittaker for insight on its expedition outerwear. The goal is to revive the brands sense of adventure and produce better performing products. Also to move away from its focus on indoor casual apparel in hopes of a big comeback.
When conservative companies hire athletes as design consultants they take a pronounced risk. In my opinion it is a great way to get the inside scoop on athletic apparel. Athletes know best what works and what does not. Brands that hire designers who live and breathe the brand are more successful.
Eddie Bauer’s new line of apparel will be put to the test when their new collection is launched in 2009. Their goal is to sell $450 per square foot, which is far from their $260 per square foot from last year. If sales increase for Eddie Bauer, these types of partnerships may become a more common occurrence. HANNA
July 17, 2008 – NEW YORK
Today, I visited Première Vision’s “Preview New York.” Held in Chelsea’s Metropolitan Pavilion, textiles companies from around the world gathered to present their finest fabric samples at this textiles tradeshow. I was looking forward to this event. While stuck in traffic en route, I speculated on all the wonderful new things I would find. Like Indiana Jones on a treasure hunt, I was eager to discover some avant-garde, never-before-seen textile, or a radical new way of producing fabric from recycled tires.
After receiving my visitor’s pass, I checked the guidebook to plan my course of action. The exhibitors were categorized into four “style universes,” with the names Seduction, Distinction, Relax, and Pulsation. There was also a catering table, but the lack of a cocktail bar narrowed down my options. No matter, I decided to start in the universe of Relax. Streetwear is my field of expertise, so I was immediately drawn to the stone-washed, sand-blasted denim booths. I struck gold at my first stop, a Turkish company called Birlik Mensucat. The manager informed me that their cottons were 100% organic, even the dyes and production process were certified eco-friendly. Sounds good to me. We traded cards and I moved on, encouraged to find more organic textiles.
I wandered through the various textile universes on the hunt for innovation, making stops here and there. One of the more noteworthy visits was at Hasegawa, a Japanese textile manufacturer. Their tissue-thin silk/cotton jerseys were the finest I had ever seen. I was also intrigued by a platinum-colored jersey, which, upon inquiry, discovered it was actually metallic ink printed on fine-gauge silk jersey. I immediately ordered a swatch book.
Premiere Vision Preview New York
After a couple dozen booths, I realized that the majority of the gorgeous fabrics that I had seen were simply not organic or sustainable. In fact, sustainability didn’t even seem to be an issue, since there was no indication of it anywhere on the maps, booths, or trend displays. It was becoming tedious to have to enquire whether or not every company I visited produced eco-friendly textiles. Just as I was ready to admit defeat, I spotted a shirt with the words “100% Organic Cotton” hanging outside a booth. The booth belonged to French company Siat & Lang. The manager showed me some beautiful shirting fabrics, all 100% organic and made in France. I ordered some last samples before heading out.
During my cab ride back to the office, I reviewed all the companies I had visited. Unfortunately, I did not find as many interesting textiles as I anticipated, and was hugely disappointed by the lack of eco-consciousness in the overall exhibition. Perhaps there is a separate textile show out there specifically for sustainable materials. However, I think that if Première Vision wants to continue labeling themselves as “the premier textile workshop,” they should expand their vision and look at current issues of sustainability that are increasingly relevant to the world of fashion. WU
All photos courtesy of Première Vision. http://www.premierevision-newyork.com/
iPhone Odyssey One New Yorker’s quest for Apple’s new iPhone 3G
Monday, July 7, 2008 – WASHINGTON
12:45 – Visit local AT&T store to check phone upgrade status. Everything is cool, but the sales guy warns that I should get there early on Friday if I want the iPhone. Last time they sold out before lunchtime. I didn’t think it would be a big deal.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008 – NEW YORK
10:00 – Download and read gizmodo.com’s “iPhone Survival Guide.” It says to go bring energy bars and bottled water and be prepared to camp out. Also, the AT&T account holder must be present. Since I’m on a family plan, that means I have to go back to DC and persuade my mother to wake up early on Friday and camp out at AT&T with me. I decide to make a weekend vacation out of it.
17:30 – Book bus ticket to DC, check AT&T’s website for iPhone checklist.
Thursday, July 10, 2008 – NEW YORK
16:30 – Leave work early and go to Penn Station. The bus is jam packed. After being stuck in traffic for an hour, the bus finally exits out of NYC.
22:35 – Finally arrive home.
00:45 – Set alarm for 6:30. Go to bed early in preparation for the long day ahead.
Friday, July 11, 2008 – WASHINGTON
7:45 – Arrive at local shopping mall. The parking garage seems rather full for 8 in the morning. I get a little nervous.
7:50 – Enter mall and run to AT&T store in time to see a long line snaking around the corner. We queue up behind a skinhead with major tattoos. He says he’s not worried. He’s gone through all this a year before for the first generation iPhone. He’s an iPhone veteran.
8:00 – The doors open exactly at 8, and the line finally moves. An AT&T salesperson walks by, explaining that they only let a few people in at once, and you must register your phone in the store, which takes about 15 minutes. I do the math; it’s going to be a long morning. I survey the barely moving line. Judging by appearances only, it looks to be mostly comprised of young/middle-aged professionals. I idly wonder if they are all skipping work this morning.
8AM queue at AT&T
Getting closer!
10:00 – Two hours later, we are ushered into AT&T. The sales rep asks what can he do for us today. I reply that I’m here to buy an iPhone. Like, duh, as if he didn’t know that already. He hands me my new iPhone 3G, but tells me that I can’t use it yet since it’s not activated. Apparently, the computer systems are down so everyone has to activate their phones at home through iTunes. Okay, that’s cool, as long as I can still get my phone.
10:20 – I walk out of AT&T feeling accomplished. The line is even longer than when we arrived over two hours ago. I proudly hold my yet-to-function iPhone. I’m dying to try it out to see if it lives up to all the hype.
11:00 – I try to set up my phone as per the instructions. I hook it up to my MacBook Pro and watch it connecting to iTunes. Ten minutes later, a memo box pops up. The network connection has timed out. I guess it can’t handle a million people trying to activate their phones all at once. Looks like I’ll have to wait to try out my new phone.
17:30 – I attempt to activate my phone again. This time I am lucky as it hooks right up to iTunes. Fifteen minutes later, my phone is finally activated! I set it up so that all my emails, contacts, and calendars are seamlessly synced to my phone. Then I upload music, photos, and videos.
Syncing iPhone to laptop
18:20 – Eight hours after leaving AT&T, my new iPhone is fully loaded and ready to go. Now I can enjoy spending the rest of my weekend customizing my phone.
Monday, July 14, 2008 – NEW YORK
10:00 – Back in New York and back at work. Everyone is talking about the new iPhone. The New York Times reports that Apple sold over one million in the first weekend. My co-worker complains that he waited for three hours on Friday at AT&T, only to find that it was sold out. Another co-worker says that on Saturday, the line at the 14th St Apple Store went all the way down past Jeffrey’s. Yeah, sounds like it was one hell of a weekend for all parties involved. But every time I pick up my new iPhone 3G, I remember that it was all worth it. WU
With fuel prices on the rise, and governments attempting to curb carbon emissions, it’s no surprise that the auto industry is leaning towards more eco-friendly cars. Recent auto shows revealed a new generation of cars that are more sustainable than ever before. What sets the new breed of hybrid cars apart is that, unlike past concepts, many of these vehicles are more practical and road-ready.
Toyota has introduced a new Prius that draws on solar energy for power, creating an endless source of renewable energy. The energy will power the car’s air conditioning unit, making for a more fuel-efficient ride. Fellow Japanese company, Honda, is not far behind, with a Civic hybrid that utilizes lightweight parts made from biodegradable materials. Leading French automobile company, Peugeot, has also been dedicated to developing sustainable vehicles. Their urban-friendly Citroen C-Cactus prototype debuted last year in Frankfurt, and they’ve recently introduced the 308 RCZ, a fuel-efficient car jointly produced with BMW. The 308 BioFlex represents a new wave of cars that run on eco-conscious biofuel.
What is innovative about these eco-cars is that the designers have more to consider than just performance and aesthetics. They must tap into a specific lifestyle and market where people want smaller, lighter, and more sustainable vehicles. Drivers are increasingly seeking cars that can reduce their environmental impact. As new technologies make way for a dazzling array of possibilities, it won’t be long before “green” cars dominate the roads. WU
Saving our environment is talk. The sale of bottled water has not declined since its introduction. A few facts from the Water Quality Association:
* Bottled water sales and consumption continue to rise, according to statistics released April 9, 2007, by the International Bottled Water Association (IBWA) and Beverage Marketing Corporation (BMC).
* Total US bottled water volume exceeded 8.25 billion gallons in 2006, a 9.5 percent increase over the prior year.
* Wholesale dollar sales for bottled water exceeded $10.8 billion in 2006, an 8.5 percent increase over the $10 billion in 2005.
My goal as a designer is to inspire and lead. It is evident that people are still consuming bottled water. This may be the result of too few alternatives. Forget your Nalgene (www.nalgene-outdoor.com/store) water bottle at home and your next alternative is bottled water. Tap water has earned such a bad reputation, spending 2 dollars on 12oz of water seems normal.
As a solution, I propose:
* Providing consumers with easy Internet based access to the quality of their local water supply.
* A nationwide roll out of water fountains. Yes, water fountains. Prior to the ubiquitous plastic Poland Springs water bottle, your average citizen was happy to use a public water fountain.
Some disagree with me because there is no money to be made by giving filtered water away for free. My reply, because it is not in a bottle does not mean it needs to be distributed freely. An example:
A few visionary restaurants in New York and California have offered filtered tap water as an alternative to bottled water. The filtered water costs the same as bottled water, yet has none of the environmental set-backs.
As the cost of producing and shipping bottle water surges and consumer awareness towards the environment increases, the popularity of bottled beverages will decrease.
I am currently designing filtered water fountains for the public space and welcome the feedback of water drinkers, beverage companies, city planners or filtration companies everywhere. NATALIA
European textiles fair Pitti Filati opens next week in Florence, as many spinners are busily preparing for the upcoming season’s latest trends.According to many fashion forecasters, color will play a big role this Fall/Winter.Simultaneously, the trend for “green” fashion remains strong, as demand for organic fibers has slowly increased over the past few years.As a result, spinners are looking towards more sustainable methods of production.
Scottish company Todd & Duncan plan to introduce an organic cashmere range, while Italian spinners Loro Festa will present organic merino wool.Since bold and intense colors will play a large role in the upcoming season, many companies are looking to the Global Organic Textile Standard, and only using dyes that have been approved organic.
The goal of these companies is to attract and retain buyers for organic yarns.The market is strong in Japan and in select European countries, although it is nearly non-existent in America.To keep organic fibers in the fashion market, spinners must stay innovative and develop new methods of producing sustainable textiles that will capture the interest of the fashion industry.WU
In competitive swimming, a quarter of a second can be the difference between first and fifth place. Coaches and athletes look for other alternatives to increase a player’s performance.
Speedo’s latest LZR Pulse fabric is designed to reduce muscle oscillation and skin vibrations through their “internal core stabilizer” that works similar to a corset to hug the body. It is made from a densely woven Nylon Elastane fabric that tightens the bod similar to a girdle. What adds to its competitive edge is that there are no sewn seams; instead edges are fused together using ultrasonic welding.
This sleeveless, second skin, shoulder-to-ankle suit is the most hydrodynamic swimsuit available when it comes reducing drag. Although, this new technological advancement created record breaking scores it is a controversial subject when used in competitive sports.
“Speedo is the Kleenex of swimwear, but not since the advent of steroids have we seen so many record-smashing events,” says analyst Marshal Cohen of the NPD Group. Some even refer to it as technological doping. (http://www.newsweek.com/id/142410).
Every athlete has access to this suit. It is ultimately up to the individual to spend $600 on a racer suit that takes twenty minutes to put on, and shaves a millisecond off the final time. Would you buy it? HANNA
MacGregor Golf is a 100 year old golf company, one with a new CEO. Michael J. Setola shares with us his vision and strategy for keeping the innovative brand strong.
NATALIA: Please give folks a bit of insight as to what your role entails.
Michael: As CEO of MacGregor, my primary role is to manage the investments and direction of the company. As it relates to product, inventory is our largest investment, so I keep a keen eye on product and product development.
NATALIA: How did you first become interested in fashion?
Michael: Funny story, but my first job was with Hanes Underwear. I was selling boxers and white briefs. Suddenly for the first time, colored underwear came on the scene and I saw the effect of fashion on something as simple as underwear. I was hooked on the excitement of newness and the effect great product has on business.
NATALIA: How would you define good innovation?
Michael: Good innovation is the combo of design, merchandising and sell through to the consumer. It needs to be relevant as truly new, but have meaning to the consumer.
NATALIA: Is innovation important to you? MacGregor?
Michael: At both the Greg Norman collection and in our MacGregor Golf Club companies, innovation is what separates us from the field.
NATALIA: How is innovation realized in your business?
Michael: Design, product development, technical services and production all must work together to bring innovation to the market in sync.
NATALIA: Any challenges or successes you have had bringing innovative design to market?
Michael: There are always challenges in getting all these components firing at the same time. Often, one area is ahead or behind in the ability to deliver innovation, so a project may be delayed.
NATALIA: What are some of the current innovation projects you are working on?
Michael: In apparel, climate controlled fabrics are becoming more important for the active golfer. Body temperature regulating developments are in our market and improvements are in the works. In golf clubs, we have a new metal that we are introducing to the clubface for game improvement.
NATALIA: Do you feel technology in fashion is just a trend?
Michael: Everything is a trend. It’s just about how long it stays with us. Technology will be with us for a long time, the consumer likes it.
NATALIA: In a few words please share with us your vision for the future.
Michael: Companies that innovate and develop consumer centric products will excel even more in the future. The combination of economic challenges and modern expectations will raise the bar for products to succeed.
New York held its new annual Digital Downtown, a consumer technology showcase at the World Financial Center Winter Garden this past weekend. It featured the latest innovative trends on consumer electronics, from high definition televisions, mobile devices, audio, to energy saving and gaming devices.
Flat screen HDTV’s dominated the majority of the atrium with the new ultra thin 1.5 inch Hitachi standing out. The images were so clear, consumers stood for minutes admiring the image quality. But, Roland, the world’s leading manufacturer of electronic musical instruments had the most amazing demonstrations of what the future brings. One demonstration that stood out is known as “the parent’s dream” the silent drum set made of rubber, is attached to headphones that allow each hit, tap, snare to be translated to the original instrumental sound. Another demonstration that stood out was the double keyboard with a microphone attachment that allowed you to sing into the microphone out of tune as it translates your tone perfectly into pitch. The instrument allowed the demonstrator to sing orchestral back up to Mariah Carey’s a cappella. With this new product soon to be in consumer hands, can anyone be the next Mariah Carey?
Technology is redefining our future and the way we communicate. New York, now being apart of the CEA (Consumer Electronics Association) can now spread the innovative developments through its global entertainment and media. HANNA
The Renegade Craft Fair was held in Brooklyn this past weekend, showcasing the talents of various arts-and-crafts vendors, and promoting the increasingly popular form of “do-it-yourself” design. Fashion companies, such as Threadless (http://threadless.com) and Urban Tailor (http://urbantailor.com) are jumping on the DIY bandwagon by allowing customers to design their own garments or create their own graphic tees online. User-friendly web pages allow customers to click and create customized clothing based on provided styles and textiles. With the help of Internet technology, customers can instantly create and preview their own customized clothing.
Sneaker goliath, Nike, takes this trend one step further with their latest creation: Nike PhotoID. Combining mobile technology with the DIY trend, Nike PhotoID allows fans to create sneakers based on snapshots taken by their cell phones. The new program analyzes dominant colors in the photograph and then transfers those colors into a sneaker template. An image of the shoe is sent back to the mobile phone, and users have the option to save it as a wallpaper or order the actual footwear. The customized color-ways are available on Nike’s classic 1985 Dunk high-top basketball sneakers. Currently, Nike PhotoID is only available in Europe. WU
Most automobiles are fabricated in hard plastic, glass and metal, requiring many parts and joints. The team at BMW has rethought this approach and presented a seamless skin concept. The outcome is both ergonomic and beautiful.
Design Futurist believes the best innovation not only makes objects more beautiful, it makes them more functional. General complaints from drivers have little to do with the surface and everything to do with poor durability, vulnerable electrical systems and complicated repairs.
Seamless design can mean more graceful lines, simpler parts, and fluid transitions. We hope BMW, extends this thought process to the internal design of future cars. NATALIA
In 2007, tech giant Google caused quite a stir by announcing the development of a new open-source software for mobile devices, called Android. Google’s new project was dubbed the gPhone and has been eagerly anticipated as a better alternative to Apple’s iPhone.
However, Google does not actually intend on releasing an exclusive gPhone. Instead, they are offering their new Android software to existing cell phone companies, such as Samsung (picture above). Google hopes to compete against software companies that utilize Microsoft and Macintosh operating systems, the predominant choice for mobile devices. Android powered phones will run on 3G wireless networks, which allow for high-speed internet connections. They will be seamlessly integrated with Google’s computer-based communication services, and offer GPS and a seamless interface. Most importantly, they will be affordable, and available outside of the US.
This week, Apple officially unveiled its own new iPhone, which has all the features that Google advertises for Android. The iPhone 3G is also fast, features GPS, a new MobileMe system, is relatively affordable, and will be available in over 70 countries.
Google started with a great concept, but Apple beat them to the execution. Currently, Android powered phones are in the works for 2009, while Apple’s new iPhone will be available in stores July 11th. WU
NATALIA
