In the New York Times article, “Nokia Tries to Undo Blunders in U.S.,” journalist, Kevin J. O’brien interviews executives at Nokia, a Finnish company and the world’s largest cell phone maker, about its decline in the United States.

Nokia’s comments are best summarized by this quote: “Among its biggest blunders, analysts and former Nokia executives say, the company failed to design many of its phones to the tastes of American consumers, instead mass producing devices for the global market to save on production costs.” That move cost Nokia almost a 30% share of the American market. On Thursday, Nokia posted a 1.36 billion loss and a global sales decline of 20%.

Evident in this story: the value of good design, and the cost of short-term thinking.

Example, Nokia was slow to develop a smart phone that could compete with the iPhone, a consistently growing sector of the cell phone market. And refused to tailor merchandise to local tastes and demands, at a penalty. The cell phone industry is extremely competitive and good design is an important element to any business success story.

Now, “Mark Louison, president of Nokia’s North American unit, says the company is laying the groundwork for long-term success.” Long-term, is a word not often uttered in corporate America. That said, having a vision of the long-term, the future that is, will be critical to any company looking to thrive.

If  only more executives  would take the time to understand the long-term picture and build for local markets, we would all benefit from an environmentally and economically sustainable world. NATALIA

When I see performers like Kanye West and Lady Gaga sporting light up clothing and accessories I can’t help but think that this could be a glimpse into the near future of fashion.  The visceral use of the technology lends itself in performance but could there actually be a real world purpose? Yes, but not yet. A new technology called Lumalive has emerged, and like most fashion technology collaborations, Lumalive is best suited as marketing buzz. Until there are more fashion designers that understand material technology and see the big picture, we will continue to see frivolous high-tech innovations.

Lumalive is a branch off product from Phillips, and specializes in pieces of clothing with embedded LED lights that can create moving images within the textile itself. So far, they have been pushing the idea that this is an eye catching way to promote your company, product or event.  The images that are created within the garment are very generic and look like a scrolling movie theater marquee. None the less, the experience is visually stimulating, and as this technology evolves the images will become more complex.

It seems inevitable that its novelty will wear off and that Lumalive will make its way into mainstream retail. Considering how fast trends in fashion move people may just crave a light bright garment for back to school.  Now the idea of illuminating clothing becoming accessible doesn’t seem to be so Tron-esque anymore.

CABEZAS

Green Community Design – Recently, I visited the exhibition Green Community at the National Building Museum in Washington, DC. The show was full of light, very sleek and relied heavily on the circle as a core aesthetic element. Not a personal interior design favorite, but bright, easy to read and simple to navigate. Time capsules filled with facts of note, from the last two centuries, proved engaging and creative. They reminded me of the importance of sprawling public parks, intelligent political reform, and innovative sciences, in creating healthy hospitable environments (communities). For example, “1858, Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux’s plan wins the design competition for Central Park in New York City ”, reads one. Another, 1980, US President “Ronald Regan removes the White House solar panels,” says another.

Many may believe smart neighborhoods or green urbanism is a new trend. This exhibition presents the historic context, and how early 19^th century designers and citizens understood the need for clean air, water, and soil while industrialization increased. The show is rather small, but rich with images and insights, shown through cool interactive displays and examples of transformed cities. Also worth noting, the models of American cities changed from grey to green.

Though there are mentions of international cities such as London and Curitiba, I felt the focus was on America for its strengths and weaknesses. Did you know lawns in the United States, which steal water and host pesticides that spoil our water, cover an area roughly the size of the New York State and that each year 40 Billion dollars is spent on their upkeep? Check out the gift store for necessary books such as Cradle to Cradle. NATALIA

 

 

Carbon Kevlar Hybrid Cloth

Carbon fibers are a woven structure of thin carbon strands used to create a strong and lightweight shell for a variety of products from cars and fishing rods to cycling clothing.

The textiles are stronger than steel but much lighter. This decreased density is why the fibers are used to lower the center of gravity in cars, and create ultra light, durable clothing.

In some cases the fibers endure a multi-step process of heat and oxidization reaching several hundreds of degrees Celsius. The last phase for some of the fibers involves using a plastic resin changing the fiber into Carbon Fiber Reinforced Plastic. For military use in planes and protective clothing this multi-step, energy intensive process may make sense, yet it seems excessive for everyday clothing.

According to C&F Fabric Corps., the carbon fiber biking jerseys have extra absorbency to keep athletes cooler, cleaner and drier. Overall, the ecological impact seems too great to start mass producing clothing dependent on a process involving extreme temperatures and exposure to toxins.

- GANDRUD

 History of the Bike Jersey

Prophetick fabric + Noir collection

Of all the fashion weeks this last month, London leads the way down the eco road.

Estethica is the area of London Fashion Week that exhibits only eco and fair trade clothing, and this year there was a lot to see and hear. The exhibit has grown from 13 to 37 exhibitors over the last three years and this year it featured a range of eco designers including Noir, Goodone, Prophetick and Eloise Grey. The designers have dedicated themselves to doing good by way of their products. Prophetick uses fabric painted by elephants, Goodone utilizes recycled cashmere for geometric knits, Eloise Grey is working to make the first certified organic tweed and Noir tries to keep sourcing within the EU.

Amid the hustle and bustle at Estethica, London Fashion week revealed a big surprise: The Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs unveiled its Sustainable Clothing Action Plan.

Because clothing and textiles account for approximately 5-10 per cent of our environmental impacts (Source: European Commission (2006): Environmental Impact of Products), and consumption is likely to increase and raise the impact even more, the government and some high street retailers have taken green pledges. While no promises have been made, stores such as Marks and Spencer have taken a pledge to use more recyclable fibers and organic materials.

Bravo London!

- GANDRUD

Noir

London Fashion Week

NEW YORK, NY – February 25, 2009 – Natalia Allen received an honor, bestowed each year by the World Economic Forum. The Forum recognizes and acknowledges between 200 and 300 outstanding young leaders from around the world for their professional accomplishments, commitment to society and potential to contribute to shaping the future of the world.

Drawn from a pool of almost 5,000 candidates, the Young Global Leaders 2009 were chosen by a selection committee, chaired by H.M. Queen Rania Al Abdullah of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, comprising 31 eminent international media leaders.

About The Forum of Young Global Leaders – Established in 2004 by Professor Klaus Schwab, The Forum of Young Global Leaders is a unique, multistakeholder community of the world’s most extraordinary young leaders who dedicate a part of their time to jointly address global challenges and who are committed to devote part of their knowledge and energy to collectively work towards a better future. Together the Young Global Leaders work to discover innovative solutions to today’s most pressing problems through various initiatives and workstreams as well as catalysing the next generation of leaders. Please visit the link for more information. Source: www.weforum.org – World Economic Forum announces Young Global Leaders 2009 - www.younggloballeaders.org

“I’m not a fashion person or an art person. I’m an ideas person.” That is the most succinct description Hussein Chalayan can offer to a world of outsiders looking at his creations. The British Designer of the year for 1999 and 2000 has a new exhibit at the Design Museum in London. True to form, his clothing is arguably art. Dresses made from LED screens, futuristic silhouettes, it is all very inspiring perhaps, but who will buy it and wear it? The avant garde designer makes no attempt to choose between art and fashion and that is evident in his creations.

As a Central Saint Martins senior he buried his collection of silk clothing in the earth to see how it would decay. Clearly, Chalayan is an idea person. It does not seem he is designing practical clothing for people to actually wear despite his admission that he hates it when people say they are inspired by his collections. He wants people to buy.

In his 2000 Sadler Wells show Chalayan’s models stepped into what looked like coffee tables and then pulled them up over themselves and they were garments. In his current collection the His Before Minus Now dress is programmed to change shape by a remote and is made of aircraft materials, there is a dress made of over 15,000 LED lights and one that shines lasers. Hard to believe Chalayan also works for Puma, but he seems to criss cross barriers in fashion and art effortlessly.

Seemingly excessive in ideas and unusual materials, yet fascinating, Chalayan’s last 15 years of work can be seen at the Design Museum in London until April 24^th.

- GANDRUD

Design Museum

Hussein Chalayan

Numbers by Faconnable

Women and men want well-made clothing and today that might mean buying from the same collection as more and more designers release gender neutral collections.

Faconnable began in the south of France and was known for exquisite tailoring and quality materials. So naturally, it makes sense that as women expand their wardrobes to loser fitting clothing and suits that there would be a desire for quality. Eric Wright, Faconnable’s Creative Director, just launched a unisex collection called Numbers. The pieces are slim versions of classic men’s sportswear from the French company. The sizing is based loosely on women’s sizing (0-11). Since men’s fashion has been incorporating tights, skinny jeans and loose fitting tops recently it seems only natural to have a unisex collection that would be a bit loose fitting for the ladies and cater to the men’s trend of tighter fitting clothing. Wright, a Lagerfeld and Cavalli alum, explains, “They’re basics, based on menswear, but women can wear them just as easily. It’s all about how you want it to fit.”

With tighter budgets and the catwalks turning a bit towards androgynous looks, a non-gender specific collection seems like a great idea. A man can go out and buy a fitted pair of twill trousers and his girlfriend can throw them on with a tight colorful belt and white collared shirt unbuttoned a bit and suddenly it is a he/she wardrobe.

Gucci, Prada, YSL and Balenciaga showed clothing in Paris and Milan that was more austere and voluminous on women. Chloë Sevigny is adding a unisex collection to her Opening Ceremony line as well. Perhaps women just want to tap into the well-made, durable world of men’s tailoring and sportswear. Perhaps men are tending the other way towards tighter fitting clothing. Perhaps if a collection is well made it is attractive to everyone. Whatever the reason, fashion, not socio-politics, seems to be dominating this trend. Unlike women’s liberation from corsets in the 20’s and the power suits of the 80’s, it just seems like people appreciate versatile, well-made clothing and that desire is not gender specific or necessarily rooted in a political statement. As long as designers continue to make some gender specific clothing too to fill out their collections, I think everyone will stay happy. Just think of how many more closet sharing opportunities there will be. Faconnable’s website has a video of the collection below.

Faconnable

Vogue Online

English Retreads is a Boulder, CO based company born from Heather English’s own desire for a vegan handbag. Heather, a strict vegetarian, was looking for a leather alternative handbag. One day while floating down Boulder Creek on an inner tube she got an idea to refurbish vintage rubber and made herself a bag with tools from the local company McGuckin Hardware. After producing her bag and a few for friends, the company was officially founded in 2001 and operated out of her basement. Now based out of North Boulder, English Retreads continues to collect used inner tubes from local bike shops and gas stations, reusing the rubber for everything from dog collars to purses and belts. The average inner tubes have traveled an average of 60,000 miles already according to English Retreads.

Aside from a personal commitment to vegetarianism, Heather had no formal background in design or production. The company’s philosophy is to create “one-of-a-kind, hand-crafter accessories that make a high-impact fashion statement and a low impact on the environment.” Eight years later the company offers its hip, urban, waterproof products throughout  local boutiques in the U.S. and Canada. Not only is the product committed to social and ecological consciousness, English Retreads is a member of Co-op America’s Green Business Network and offsets its carbon footprint.

The bags themselves are very individual since each inner tube has different markings and as of now the product is made by hand. Recently the line has expanded to include lined bags as well and the lining is made for PET, recycled plastic bottles. Of course the bags are sturdy because of the material and also a little heavy. English Retreads is a great example of a local business born from an individual need for a smart product.

English Retreads bags are only sold in local boutiques and the average cost is between$100 and $200, with the large Beetle (pictured above) retailing at $209. – GANDRUD

 English Retreads

McGuckin Hardware

Bark cloth has been made throughout tropical and subtropical communities for ages and was a symbol of stature of the social elite. Today bark cloth is used as a sustainable, renewable material outside of these traditions. Traditionally, the inner bark of a fig or paper mulberry tree was harvested then through a two-week process of soaking and pounding the bark until it is thin, flexible and strong. Then a gum base is applied to attach pieces of the bark cloth together. Finally, after the men had gotten the bark cloth to this stage, the women painted it. Bark cloth was used for various ceremonies from mourning to weddings. The traditional Ugandan production of bark cloth is so specific it is considered a masterpiece of cultural and world heritage and is certified by UNESCO.

The final product is a strong, light, soft, textured material that withstands high humidity.Unlike Rayon and Lyocell, both made from tree pulp, bark cloth can stand high-humidity locations and the dampness does not cause shrinkage.

Aside from locals in Africa, Hawaii and other equatorial locations, there is a more modern production of bark cloth as well. The modern production is more of a weave and incorporates some Lycra or other material into the cloth and uses machinery for the pounding. The advantage of using bark cloth is that it is a natural process and the bark is renewable since it can be harvested from the same tree once a year. However, this more modern production often requires starting the material in one country and shipping it to another to be finished which counteracts some of the sustainability that is desirable about using bark cloth.

Bark cloth is used for hats, bags, as well as interior design fabrics. In the 1950’s there was quite a bit of bark cloth used for interior, and this vintage bark cloth is available widely online. While it is difficult to find any specific name brand designers using bark cloth, it seems that with the new Bark Cloth Initiative between Germany and Uganda that there will be more bark cloth on the market and hopefully it will trickle into mainstream fashion. At the moment, most examples of bark cloth are in textile museums, online purchases of vintage materials and local tropical communities.

At present modern bark cloth is also used by quilters and can be purchased from the New England Quilt Museum. Bark cloth can also be purchased by the BarkCloth Hawaiian Fabric Shop phone at: 808.422.4321. GANDRUD

 UNESCO

Making of Bark Cloth

Bark Cloth Production in Tonga